Roksanda Ilincic
Set at The Institute of directors in Pall Mall, I was
running 30 minutes late and got there just in time. It was hosted in beautiful
surroundings with giant chandeliers and plush carpets. I tottered over to my
seat, and the show swiftly begun. It began with a deep burgandy dress with
large rounded off shoulders. This was a frequent look down the catwalk, a
structured minimalistic look that was surprisingly wearable. Plush velvet
played a part as well as her signature contrasting exposed zips and the muchly anticipated cleverly
draped dresses. Fur was beautifully placed on the back of the neckline to
create a subtle glamourous look for the winter. Injections of tourquoise and
jewel purple made an appearance in block panels of dresses and skirts, mixed
with navy wool blazers which had gold thread woven into them. There was a
definite sporty feel to the collection with sweaters and cotton ribbed jumpers. Tweeds appeared on skirts accompanied with
delicately placed bead work. A gorgeous
maroon jumpsuit appeared sleeveless so that a prim white shirt could be worn
underneath. A very simple put together look. Fur continued to be present within
the collection making bold statements at the hem off dresses and at the
shoulders. Black inky lines were printed on white dresses which were elegant and
tailored. A beautiful collection, with boxy chic silhouettes and a hint of
cosmopolitan glamour, something I can’t wait to wear.
Ji Cheng
The collection called Zen Awakening, denotes that “thought
is not thinking, but it’s relying on the inner senses to constantly examine
actions, allowing a disordered mind to focus.” The first time she’s ever shown
her collection in London, she has mixed traditional Chinese elements with
Western culture. Black, red, orange were at the centre of the colour palette as
well as a hint of off white towards the end of the show. With rounded off
shoulders on the coats, the designs were pretty and simple. Nothing
overwhelming or in your face was seen however there were hints of traditional Chinese
pattern edged round necklines. Inverted collars emerged on a shirt or two as
well as the woven technique on a blouse that was bold. Most of the dresses had
a kimono, wrap look to it using opposing colours such as nudes and neon
yellows, off whites and blood red. The finale piece was a beautiful black stiff
material with layered striped plastic like material layered over it in a cocoon
shape. This wasn't anything new or exciting to be honest however the models were heel-less, one bald model and I nearly fell asleep...
Leutton Postle
The collection went off with a bold start, with knitted pom
pom dresses from the beginning it was obvious that Leutton Postle was for the
more eccentric palette. The colours were vibrant and clashed in every aspect. A
skirt, jacket and shirt ensemble were all made from the reverse applique
technique which had a matisse feel as there were faces embedded in the
patterns. The main colour being a silk maroon had bursts of pink foil, sea blue
and navy revealed by the applique. More of the reverse applique technique was
seen on leggings, jumpers and trousers. Knitwear played a huge part of the
collection, with more faces incorporated in the apparel, the muted tones of
mixed with inky blues and fuschia. They certainly weren’t scared to utilise
their materials with splashed of tinsel and glittery yarn to illuminate the
collection. Using layered knitwear in the collection was perfect for the
Autume/Winter collection and they came in forms of cardigans, jumpers, shorts,
tank tops and more. There was a real sense of creativity within the show, from
a range of beautiful knitted techniques to blocks of colours in different textures.
The show was fun and frivolous with some really eccentric pieces.
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