Tuesday, 21 February 2012

LFW - Day 5

Roksanda Ilincic

Set at The Institute of directors in Pall Mall, I was running 30 minutes late and got there just in time. It was hosted in beautiful surroundings with giant chandeliers and plush carpets. I tottered over to my seat, and the show swiftly begun. It began with a deep burgandy dress with large rounded off shoulders. This was a frequent look down the catwalk, a structured minimalistic look that was surprisingly wearable. Plush velvet played a part as well as her signature contrasting exposed zips and the muchly anticipated cleverly draped dresses. Fur was beautifully placed on the back of the neckline to create a subtle glamourous look for the winter. Injections of tourquoise and jewel purple made an appearance in block panels of dresses and skirts, mixed with navy wool blazers which had gold thread woven into them. There was a definite sporty feel to the collection with sweaters and cotton ribbed jumpers.  Tweeds appeared on skirts accompanied with delicately placed bead work.  A gorgeous maroon jumpsuit appeared sleeveless so that a prim white shirt could be worn underneath. A very simple put together look. Fur continued to be present within the collection making bold statements at the hem off dresses and at the shoulders. Black inky lines were printed on white dresses which were elegant and tailored. A beautiful collection, with boxy chic silhouettes and a hint of cosmopolitan glamour, something I can’t wait to wear. 

Ji Cheng

The collection called Zen Awakening, denotes that “thought is not thinking, but it’s relying on the inner senses to constantly examine actions, allowing a disordered mind to focus.” The first time she’s ever shown her collection in London, she has mixed traditional Chinese elements with Western culture. Black, red, orange were at the centre of the colour palette as well as a hint of off white towards the end of the show. With rounded off shoulders on the coats, the designs were pretty and simple. Nothing overwhelming or in your face was seen however there were hints of traditional Chinese pattern edged round necklines. Inverted collars emerged on a shirt or two as well as the woven technique on a blouse that was bold. Most of the dresses had a kimono, wrap look to it using opposing colours such as nudes and neon yellows, off whites and blood red. The finale piece was a beautiful black stiff material with layered striped plastic like material layered over it in a cocoon shape. This wasn't anything new or exciting to be honest however the models were heel-less, one bald model and I nearly fell asleep...

Leutton Postle

The collection went off with a bold start, with knitted pom pom dresses from the beginning it was obvious that Leutton Postle was for the more eccentric palette. The colours were vibrant and clashed in every aspect. A skirt, jacket and shirt ensemble were all made from the reverse applique technique which had a matisse feel as there were faces embedded in the patterns. The main colour being a silk maroon had bursts of pink foil, sea blue and navy revealed by the applique. More of the reverse applique technique was seen on leggings, jumpers and trousers. Knitwear played a huge part of the collection, with more faces incorporated in the apparel, the muted tones of mixed with inky blues and fuschia. They certainly weren’t scared to utilise their materials with splashed of tinsel and glittery yarn to illuminate the collection. Using layered knitwear in the collection was perfect for the Autume/Winter collection and they came in forms of cardigans, jumpers, shorts, tank tops and more. There was a real sense of creativity within the show, from a range of beautiful knitted techniques to blocks of colours in different textures. The show was fun and frivolous with some really eccentric pieces.

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