Fatima Lopes
The Fatima Lopes show was held in the gorgeous Hôtel des Invalides and a cellist takes to the catwalk to open the show. From the press release we discover that the theme is body structure including the body’s circulatory system inspiring prints and bold external structuring. The collection begins with full, skin tight leather jumpsuits featuring strong geometric panelling flattering and contouring the body, these are accessorised with red and black fascinator hats worn on the very top of the forehead - a recent trend and accenting the block colour trend. Mixing fiery red with black and burgundy the colour palette is intense. Sleeves on jackets are wide and often caped for an interesting structured silhouette which is continued through structured panels standing away from the body.
Strips of shredded leather are used to create an interesting outline and over fur and print to add to interest. Garments feature generally high necks yet jackets worn along have necklines slashed to the belly button some featuring huge fluffy fur sleeves adding the structure. Prints worked their way in to the collection with the veiny influences obvious straight away, the lines looking like dead branches snaking across the garments.
Layering was used in garments such as asymmetric peplums on knee length dresses. Narrow waists and shoulders were accented with padded appendages and occasionally sheer ending with black gloves with flashes of red nails.
Fabrics varied through fur, leather, chiffon and even a few baggy jersey looks. The collection mixed casual influences with stunning outerwear and structured themes which complimented the intricate prints.
Written by Jemima Daisy
Moon Young Hee
The show was held at The Shangri La hotel in Paris – opulent and gauche with high arching ceilings, uniformed attendants and too much gold. The collection was stark in comparison to the setting – starting with an all black outfit with a 90’s grunge feel. Black straight legged trousers were layered under dresses, oversized blazers and topped with street urchin caps and messy hair. Padded jackets had shoulders cut out, padded and sticking out creating structure. Sleeves often were slashed to the wrist as well as beginning low and with a batwing effect. Layering was key to this collection and followed an androgynous theme. Wide legged trousers swept the floor with occasional chunky woollen prints and high shine padded jackets. Colour worked its way into the so far monochrome collection subtly starting with black and white, adding in navy satin before draped purple jersey tube dresses appeared. The evening wear, later section of the show featured over sized pussy bows, sheer chiffon shirts and layers under satin smoking jackets, belted at the waist and panelled gently in gold, sand and burnt orange. Muted green also made a trendy appearance. The wide legged palazzo pants continued but were featured in sheer chiffon to continue the evening feel.
The collection mixed stylish 90’s grunge basics with simple evening elegance with great effect. The lack of detail was refreshing however the show was a touch long.
Word by Jemima Daisy
Photos by Sannita
Corrado de Biase
The first look to come down the runway was a sheer shirt
dress which came down to the calves worn with a floral quilted skirt, with an
androgynous feel to the beginning look it was consistent throughout the show.
There were clashes of floral patterns and check with a mixture of textures and
shapes to create slimming silhouettes. The models sported low slung pony tails
and all outfits were complimented with huge platform brogue heels in black,
silvers and brocades. Metallic’s made an appearance on silver flowers in the
form of jackets and matching skirts, the looks were granny hip chic which made
the whole collection very wearable and cool. There was a certain edge to the
collection as the models had a fearless essence to them as they graced the
catwalks in low slung black pleated skirts and square padded boxy jackets.
Pencil skirts came in a shiny square padded material which was a fresh take on
the fabric as it’s usually made into coats, small silver studded details were
added down the centre making it more formal yet maintained a fun. The dipped
hem cut shirt dress in a translucent white and black was frequent with some
holding detail of embroidered flowers in a blue thread. It was a beautiful
eyrie atmosphere, the pleated hipster skirts worked beautifully with the sheer
shirts as wells as the layering of trousers, shirts and stiff boxed jackets in
the stunning metallic embroidered fabric. Overall a brilliant wearable show
that all the young kids on the block will be wanting to wear.
Words by Sannita
Photos by Sannita
Anothony Vaccarello
Anthony Vacarello’s collection started with a basic palette of navy blue with sport luxe, drawstring hooded jackets and military style details. The press release foretold of 50’s style glamour and fine lingerie as influences.
Utilitarian details such as drawstrings, eyelets and exposed zips gave the beginning of the collection an edge while the quality of the shining fabric added luxury and developed through pockets and structure into military style dresses and jackets. Dresses featured one harsh, structured shoulder and one exposed side with underwear details covering modesty as well as bondage style braces and elasticated straps. Dresses featured panelled bustiers with military details as did highwaisted trousers with detailed waist panels.
The evening wear dresses mixed sport luxe with elegant party wear and military finishes. Colour worked into the collection in an opalescent sparkling green as well as brassy gold which made up split side maxi skirts which seem very popular this season.
The collection was consistent and featured many interesting aspects and trends but the finale was spoiled by a model collapsing on the runway with shoe problems... or too starved to walk.
Words by Jemima Daisy
Aganovich
Based on the palette of black, white and blue this collection featured clean, perfectly cut lines, waves of stiff fabrics on double breasted jackets and heavy knitwear with dropped arm holes. The silhouette was soft yet often punctuated by spikes of clinical fabrics. Adding interest to the basic palette was occasional use of embossed brocade fabrics. Sleeves were split and satin featured along side heavier wools and outerwear. Hoods were styled into the collection as wooly balaclavas and zipped skin tight caps. From the casual wear that was inspired by the arctic came metallic blacks and velvet as well as smarter shirts piped with a delicate blue. The collection was inspired by the arctic but it was hard to see the influences through the colour scheme however there were some very interesting pieces.
Words by Jemima Daisy
Moi avec Julia
Julia- Coat: French Connection Bag: Longchamp
Me- Dress + Shoes: Topshop Shirt: Gap Blazer: New Look Hat: H&M
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