Devastee
The show begun with gothic music as if a funeral was about
to take place and from the credits information there were pictures of
graveyards with smiley faces. The show started with an oversized coat in black
with prints of oranges on it in a simple grey scale, the effect was chic and
wearable, pair with simple black tights to elongate the silhouette. The entire
collection was made up of black and white, which was the same as her previous
seasons, something the designer has kept consistent. A lot of wearable pieces
went down the runway with jumper dresses with smiley faces and crosses on them
as well as leather shorts paired with an illustrated shirt. There was a fun
easy approach to clothes as always, keeping it young and eclectic with the
smiley prints. Blazers gave a formal professional look and the PVC headbands
made it edgy. A beautiful jacket and trousers were in brocade like fabric, the
small crosses and lines made an overall intricate pattern looking tres chic.
Towards the end of the show big puffy organza dresses were seen, not the most
flattering but it worked well in the collections. Devastee created the perfect
collection for the edgy city girl.
Words by Sannita
Photos by Sannita
Guy Laroche
The show was set in the Garden le Tuilleries, starting half
an hour late, the show had an immediate start with a shiny burgany coat and
black dress accompanied with knee high curved heel boots. Silhouettes had a
boyish feel to them with rounded off shoulders and tailored trousers styled
with slick back hair. Contrasts of the deep brown reds against the off whites
maintained a feminine look. Maxi skirts played a part, whether worn with big
ruffles off fur or elegant chiffon v necks, it was certainly a variety of
looks. Later hints of white emerged in satin trousers and roll necks giving a
sleek Parisian feel. Suddenly blasters of bright orange came through in
metallic leaved skirts and gorgeous high waisted trousers. Bomber jackets gave
a more casual approach where as the cable knit jumpers made it commercial. There was a gold leaf effect on a two piece suit which was rather luxurious however some could think it was a bit over the top. Overall the collection was consistent and flowed beautifully with bold splashed of colour and texture.
Words by Sannita
Nicolas Andreas Taralis
Opening with a floor sweeping black coat over a
near sheer skirt the show got off to a good start, continuing the
military-cum-utility style jackets. Tuxedo style jackets were worn over
sheer soft knit that had trailing hems, subtle dip dye and sat well
under across the body straps and asymmetric jackets. Oriental themes
were worked through the show with kimono style sleeves and structured
necks made of quilted strips of fabric. The ulitiy themes were obvious
with waxed fabrics making up layered capes and flashes of painted metal
poppers. Within the collection were androgynous elements including the
severe hair styles and drop crotch trousers. Menswear was shown and men
wore trench coats, dropped and twisted crotch trousers, buckled at the
side and draped artfully. Silver grey appeared in unhemmed light
dresses. Scraggly hems were favoured with cotton dripping from sleeve
seams and the bottom of dresses finding themselves dirtied on the dusty
floor.
The collection mixed the three themes effectively and the collection was consistent and wearable.
Limi Feu
The collection began artfully with a Parisian
feel, monochrome separates, shift dresses and cute, chic collars on
black tea dresses rolled down the catwalk accessorised with berets and
velvet turbanettes. Waists were bunched and elasticated and this
continued through the show in oversized gathered pockets and legs on
baggy, low crotched trousers. Mixing femininity with androgyny models
worn highwaisted feminine pencil skirts and pussy bow blouses with
severe braces as well as low waisted tapered trousers. Neck lines varied
from high structured turtle necks to lower V necks. A favourite piece
was a satin jumpsuit with pearl chains hanging from around the neck and
waist. There were many outstanding pieces in this collection but the
theme seemed to get lost part way through – the feminine chic
transformed into trench coats and baggy oversized jackets in the style
of trousers with pockets halfway up the back and belt hoops on the
shoulder. Underwear worked into the collection with bustiers, lace up
skirts and jackets and corsets were worn over bunchy white fabric.
Outerwear was varied but gorgeous - with large buttons, interesting
structure and subtle texture. Cocoon and bubble coats as well as cape
shapes were a favourite!
There were many beautiful and stylish pieces in this collection but it was a little inconsistent.
Luis Buchinho
The collection took the audience through the streets of Portugal with a sophisticated, patriotic muse. The mosaic prints teamed with geometric panels flattered and added shape, often though we saw soft shift dresses hanging loosely as well as t-shirt maxis, pleated and billowing at the back. Outfits featured peplum like rectangular panels hanging away from the body and creating structure, complimenting the mosiaic print and patchwork panels. Colour blocking was featured widely throughout jumpsuits and dresses and some were split almost jester like. Outwear also featured the flap panels and jacket lapels tapered into a V shape as did the waist band of shorts adding a feaminine sexy touch. Textures were varied from satin to nylon, chunky knit, textured wool coats and shaggy sheep skin. Staying within the signature Luis Buchinho style this collection featured the favoured nautical colours of white, gray, blue and black. Another gorgeous collection from Luis Buchinho. Can’t wait to see some more in Portugal!!
Word by Jemima Daisy
Photos by Sannita
Moi
Me - Coat: Asos Dress: Vintage Shoes: Topshop Hat: H&M Bag: Yves Saint Laurent
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